Greenkama

Sustainable fashion: This is how jeans work without chemicals

Light-colored jeans, used look, stonewashed, etc. may look good, but their production usually harms people and nature. Is it still sustainable?

Author: Claudia Spiess

How are jeans made and what are the problems?

When it comes to production, the first thing that matters is the yarn. It is mostly made of cotton. This requires a lot of water to produce: up to 30 thousand liters per kilo.

When it comes to yarn, a distinction is made between warp yarn and weft yarn. The warp yarn lies in the straight direction of the jeans and is dyed blue with the synthetic dye indigo before weaving. The weft yarn, on the other hand, remains undyed because it is on the inside.

After dyeing, it often goes further: To make the fabric appear lighter, some of the dark color is removed. This process is also called refining. The color is usually made with chemicals such as: B. chlorine, removed. This process not only harms the workers in the factories, but also the environment. The bleach can cause respiratory diseases in people and damage natural water bodies.

The dust that is created when the jeans are sanded to create the patterns of the popular “used look” can also cause lung damage. And: Due to the many chemical treatments, the jeans lose their durability even before they are worn for the first time.

Manufacturing – is it sustainable?

In addition to traditional methods, there are more sustainable alternatives.
Laser treatment does not require any chemicals and is therefore more environmentally friendly and less harmful to health. During the laser process, the surface of the jeans is roughened and the indigo dye is removed. This creates the classic “used look” in a more sustainable way.

And the pumice stones that are normally used for the “stonewashed look” can also be replaced by so-called “no-stone plates”. These lead to less wear and tear on the washing machines and thus to less consumption of resources when purchasing new ones. But: Almost no jeans production can do without detergents and softeners.

However, GOTS-certified jeans are free of harmful chemicals.

Conclusion

The rule of thumb is: the less refined a pair of jeans is, the more sustainable they are. And: When buying, you should pay less attention to the manufacturer's own labels and instead pay attention to seals. Seals such as GOTS and IVN-Best stand for organic cotton cultivation, as well as controlled use of chemicals and high social standards for the people in production.

Plus, like all clothing, it's best to wear your jeans for as long as possible.

Source: SWR Marktcheck / YouTube

Source:

SWR Market Check / Ökochecker SWR
Authors: Judith Paland / Isabella Campanelli, Moderation: Tobias Koch

Already read? Attention: Amazon advises against items with a “frequently returned” label

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